Yet another bridge inspired holiday, they seen to beginning
more frequent rather than less. Having just done the Yeh Cup 2017 in Tokyo,
gone home for four days and let on this trip you'll know what I mean. At one
stage I was going do Tokyo and continue on to Europe which would have made it
an eight week trip - too long even for me.
So Thursday took off mid-afternoon on Etihad, an airline I'd
never flown before and one I was looking forward to. A very pleasant flight 788
to Abu Dhabi and 380 to Paris arriving at 07:30 in the morning - not much joy
when check-in time is 14:00. Anyway the train to Gare du Nord - farking French
the machines only take cards (not mine) and not notes - had to queue up - A
French national past time. Anyway arrived at the train station and heroically
decide to save my seven Euros and walk - not too bad but now I am at the Airbnb
apartment at 09:00 with my bags. Anyway, I sit at a cafe nursing my latte and
the hostess allows me get in at 11:30 - phew.
I have always sought to stay in the Opera district as it is
quite central to many things in Paris - shops, museums etc and I know my way
around extremely well which helps a lot.
Lovely apartment 44 sq mtrs (big for Paris) and quite well
laid out so am happy with the first of my Seven Airbnb bookings. In fact I booked so many in one day
that both my credit card and Airbnb blocked me until I contacted them and they
were assured that it was all kosher.
Not feeling tired at all, I wander up to the Grand Magasins
(department stores) to find that they have massive sales on - up to 70% off
many many things. Only problem is that I don't want or need anything and am on
a decluttering not acquisition phase of my life. Anyway always nice to look
around. I was actually surprised that, being Bastille Day, so much was open -
not like the French to want to work on a public holiday - oops did I just say
that?
Comes to dinner time and I am indeed feeling tired so I stop
at the local Marche where I bought some salad things and some lobster bisque,
which I like a lot, and go back to the apartment to prepare my dinner and what
I hoped was a good night’s sleep - not to be, mind racing and waking up many
times. Having walked 11kms that day I thought would help but alas.
Saturday morning and the obligatory coffee and croissant
start to the day in a lovely new cafe that I found which I think is operated by
Illy the coffee group. I would like to detail what I did on Saturday but I did
what I always do in Paris - I walked and I walked and I walked. In fact Saturday
would become the second of five intense days of exercise - 13km.
I had booked dinner for Sunday, Monday and Tuesday so
decided that Saturday night would be a salad Nicosia made at home night which
was an extremely good idea. A relax and some internet time finished a day in my
favourite city.
Before I came to Paris I thought I would make it a visit of
re-acquaintance so I bought a two day Hop on Hop off bus ticket online and
headed to their office a 15 minute walk away - in fact right next door to the
Illy cafe. Now imagine the scene - the first bus leaves at 09:30 and the office
opens at 09:30 - French logic at its finest. At 09:25 an employee is walking in
the door and as he does so I ask him a question. He simply points to the
opening hour on the door, walks in and locks the door behind himself and walks
off. French service at its finest. Had I not bought the ticket online I would
have used the company next door who were of course logically open - no ifs no
buts.
Anyway Sunday is my day to do the Red Line, the non
Montmartre Paris. The weather is beautiful 30 clear and sunny - perhaps a bit
humid for me but… I decided to get off at the Arc de Triomph and walk up and
down the Champs Elysees. It’s changed a lot from 39 years ago when I was first here.
Gone are the couturiers and fashion houses and here are the H&Ms, car
showrooms and others wanting a loss making presence. In fact it’s a shame that
such a beautiful street has become so mainstream.
After that I stopped at the Petite Palais (opposite the
Grand Palais at the start of the Champs Elysees). The problem with doing a blog
on a flight three days later as well as having done so much is that it is hard
to recall what the exhibition was - (oops getting old).
Around 16:00 I opt to head back to the apartment before my
20:00 booking at L’Atelier Joel Robuchon where I opt for the 8 course
degustation. The food was amazingly good but I was a touch disappointed by the
ambience of the restaurant. In the basement just off the Champs Elysees, it was
quite casual with Ray Charles, Madonna and other such music playing in the
background which seemed a touch incongruous with the fine dining proposition.
Anyway it was about the food and not the surroundings and it was faultless.
Salmon Tartar with a layer of French Caviar on top and the lobster and scallops
still fresh in my mind. Now fully exhausted after 17km walking day and a great
meal, back to the apartment for some SLEEP.
Sleep was great to welcome Monday and if you have been to
Paris you will know that Sundays are a very quiet day and it is only now - 2017
- that the larger shops and boutiques are opening EVERY Sunday. Today is Blue
Line day but first Illy Coffee and back to the Bus Tour Office to buy my pass
to jump the queue at the Louvre - something that proved to be a big winner. The
Louvre is, well, the Louvre. One of the largest Museums in the world visited by
8 million people annually. The combination of a palatial building and its
collection makes it a must do and more than once IMHO. I chose which galleries
I wanted to see, focusing on 1600-1800 art, the Mona Lisa of course and
tapestries among others.
A quick bite of lunch including a tasting of what seemed
like 15 or more Maille French Mustards – with pear, raspberries, blue cheese,
sauvignon blanc and many more. Then the hop on the bus up to Sacre Coer where I
opt for the funicular to the top and walk down. It is very humid and I am hot
and sweaty but decide to walk back to apartment and enjoy some memories as I
pass the apartment where mum’s cousin lived and where I had stayed a few times
- 23 Rue des Martyr. More walking back to the apartment and ready for dinner at
Le Soufflé, down near the Tuileries Gardens. salmon and spinach soufflé for entree, duck for main and of course
chocolate soufflé for dessert. I debate with myself about walking or a cab home
- walking wins after dessert and a record 19km day. Now my feet are killing me
big time. Anyway a new day may see them miraculously better. Um no.
Now one has to know that I have had a long history of bad
experiences with Parisian taxi drivers ranging from having my change thrown
onto the footpath to being kicked out after the driver couldn't find the
address of my destination. This one was amusing notwithstanding that I was in
the total wrong. I arrived at the apartment and the fare shown was 5 Euros and
he pressed a few buttons and all of a sudden seven Euros popped up on the
meter. I enquirer why and he said minimum fare for short rides. I looked at the
tariff sheet stuck on the window which was longer than the bible and couldn't
see it anywhere. He jumps out of the taxi cursing me in Arabic which in itself
was scary and comes to my door and starts reading the tariff sheet stuck to the
window and finds it as the very last line. I sheepishly paid the seven Euros
while he drove off till swearing in Arabic. Anyway now I know.
Tuesday morning and a latish start 09:00. I head down to the
D’Orsay Museum to see the most magnificent collection of Impressionist art on
the world. I wondered to myself how much would the collection cost today if one
could by it and realised you would need to own a country to have chance of
coming close to buying it - and a big and wealthy country at that. The D‘Orsay
doesn't have the palatial charm of the Louvre BUT it is housed in what was
originally a railway station and has a lot of unique charm even so. I had heard
that Claudia has become a fan of Van Gogh after she acquired a book at the
Getty Museum, so she was impressed to know that I had visited the original painting.
A walk through the post-impressionist gallery and some other parts of the
museum saw me on my way. I do like museums and galleries but only have a
limited attention span for them, especially when they are so crowded.
I looked for a nearby restaurant and stumbled on what proved
to be a great Italian place. I was encouraged to eat there when I saw a number
of French businessmen having their lunch there. Rockmelon with prosciutto where
the rockmelon was amazing and a spaghetti Vongole certainly hits the spot
before the Paris boat ride along the Seine to see the city and Notre Dame from
the river. Very pleasant indeed.
Back to the apartment and then two buses - yes I do catch
buses although this trip have taxied more often than I normally would - to Petite
Pontoise for dinner with a friend who lives in Paris. I sometimes ask myself
why I come here when, the first time that I went, they refused to serve me
butter (I won that one) and the second time I went, when I asked, “ah Mrs
Australia” the waiter said obviously remembering our previous encounter.
Actually I do remember why I go there, the food is excellent modern French
cuisine which honours its tradition. Great meal and excellent value. Back for
sleep after a very modest 12km day.
Wednesday morning and I have to vacate by 12:00 so off early
for breakfast - Croque Msr and coffee and a taxi to L’Orangerie on the most
beautiful places I know. Two rooms, each containing four massive and I do mean
massive Monet panels. Just sitting there and looking at them is quite
intoxicating. Below there is the permanent collection of Jean Walters and
Phillips Guillame. Guillame was a French art dealer in the early 1900’s who
acquired an amazing collection of Impressionist Art. His widow remarried and
when she donated the collection to the Orangerie she named it after both her
husbands. One of the highlights of the collection - perhaps not for me - is a
large collection of Chaim Soutine who interestingly was a Russian Jewish artist
who made an impression on the Parisian art scene. But this was a small number
of pieces compared to the overall collection of all of the names one associated
with impressionist art.
However the special exhibition which I loved was called
Paris Tokyo. So the background is that Mr Ishibashi, whose name translates to
stone and bridge started a company in Japan called Bridgestone (think tyres).
He became mega wealthy and started collecting art. Originally he started with
Japanese artists painting in western styles of western themes. This evolved into
collecting impressionist and post-impressionist art which became one of the
largest private collections in the world, here on display in Paris. It is
normally housed in a purpose built museum in Tokyo and on exhibition there and
is to this day is managed by his progeny.
A quick last minute coffee/patisserie stop, back to the
apartment to collect my luggage and ‘check out’. Four hours twenty before my
flight so I opt for a cafe lunch - bad call - and a taxi to Orly airport which,
believe it or not, with the fixed fare is cheaper than Uber.
You have to hate budget airlines at the best of times but
when you mix it with the French arrogance and top it all off with passive
aggressive it all becomes too much. Won't go into the ins and outs of it all
but Transavia is now on my no fly list.
So here I am on-board catching up on five and a half days in
Paris because I originally thought no blog but I do find it’s a great way of
recalling great holiday experiences.
So the plane arrived only ten minutes late after leaving 40
minutes late – goes to show how much time they have built in their timetables
for inefficiencies. Transavia add new meaning to budget airlines – no USB port,
no screens or entertainment of any type, no headphones as no entertainment, no
water served, have to buy it.
Anyway, I arrived safely what more can I ask for. Luggage
collected and Avis where, after some negotiations, they gave me a brand new and
not yet driven FIAT station wagon. Nice to have a brand new car but bad as it
will show every blemish if I should manage not to avoid that. His nickname is
Cesare.
One hour drive from Catania to Taormina and after some
searching I find a legal parking space (more later). Unfortunately I walk down
about 90 steps with my luggage, along the main street and up 84 steps to my Airbnb
apartment. Unfortunate because I could have walked along some laneways and
reached it without ANY steps – live and learn. Mercifully my landlord offered
to carry the bag part of the way. The apartment is superb, compact and newly
fitted out – my second Airbnb success of what will be seven this trip. Hope
they are all good as this one.
It’s 22:00 and the city is, as always, totally buzzing. No
problem finding dinner followed by one of my favourite things to do here,
extravagant as it is, coffee on the balcony of the Metropole Hotel. Love it.
Thursday morning, and the beginning of a day of again
exploring Taormina (84 steps). the Greek Theatre, the Communal Gardens,
churches and the quaintness that is Taormina. Lunch was interesting when I went
to what was supposedly the 7th best restaurant in Taormina and where
the menu looked ordinary and threadbare until the waiter apologised and
delivered the full menu. Meal was great. Back to the apartment (84 steps) and a
rest before dinner. On the way to dinner, (84 steps) I run into Sandra Smorgon
and her sister-in-law who are holidaying here after the Maccabi Games in
Israel. Dinner is a restaurant (50 steps) that I have been to with Robert and
Kathy Grynberg, atop the El Jabel Hotel. Sitting there and watching the sun set
over the Mediterranean is quite magical especially with a silence not often
available these days. Oh and the meal was outstanding as well, especially the
prawns tartar. (50 steps plus 84 steps)
Next day I reach the car (no steps) only to find what I can
assume is a rude Italian note and a parking ticket. Apparently within the whole
of Taormina, parking is for residents only and visitors must use public or
private carparks. Later this day I go to the municipal police who very kindly
explained to me what had happened. Compared to Australian fines I was not
unhappy to pay the $40 fine which BTW is one dollar less than I would have had
to pay in the municipal carpark.
Back to Taormina where I PARK IN THE CARPARK, I deal with
the parking fine and a rest in the apartment (84 steps). Out for dinner (84 steps) I find a lovely balcony restaurant
overlooking the Duomo Square where I have one of the best seafood tartare that
I have ever had. Sat there having dinner for a LONG time absorbing the lovely
Taormina night life. Back to the apartment (84 steps) and a great night’s
sleep.
Early Saturday morning off to Siracusa stopping on the way
at the Catania Market and a quick look around. Interestingly while I am at the
café I go to the toilet where there is a sign which says ‘no paper in the
toilet please’. I didn’t pay much attention but more later.
Driving in Sicily is interesting to say the least.
Autostrada speed limits jump from 50 kph to 130 kph without rhyme or reason.
When I adhere to 50, cars beep me, flash lights at me and pass me at super
speed as though I am standing still. It’s all rather bizarre.
Arrive in Syracuse about 14:00, check into the apartment and
what a blessing – only 50 steps and I drop my luggage off. Lovely 100 sq metre
apartment on two levels, well air-conditioned which is important at the
temperature nudges 40 degrees. As an aside this apartment would cost €160,000 or $A230,000, about 1/6th
of the same apartment in Sydney.
So I go to the toilet to again see the sign ‘no paper in the
toilet please’. I contact the owner and am informed that one wipes one’s arse
and places the paper in the bin next to the toilet and then take the filled
plastic liner to the street each day. I now start thinking whether it is
possible to refrain from going to the bathroom for number two for 47 hours and
51 minutes. Hmmmm
Drive to the ‘Centro Historico’ and a wander around for three
hours and book a dinner restaurant where I have previously been – Regina Lucia.
It is located in one of the salons beneath the former Borgia Palace. Back to
the apartment for a relax (50 steps up) and then leave for dinner (50 steps
down) – all worthwhile by far given the amazing seven course seafood
degustation meal that was set before me. A walk around the ‘old town’ and back
to the apartment (50 steps) and a good night’s sleep.
Next morning and an early departure to visit Noto, an hour’s
drive away. A very beautiful historic Village and certainly worth a visit.
After visiting the church and the main street in the historic part of the city,
I stumble across a combined Chagall/Missoni exhibition which was CERTAINLY
worth a visit. After my 17th Lemon Granita in Sicily I head off a 90
minute drive to Ragusa. When reading up
on Ragusa the first ten essential must visit sites are churches, churches and
more churches although I did also visit to Garden Communale which was tranquil
and Zen-like. A drive back to Siracusa and a rest (50 steps up) and dinner (50
steps down) and a nearby restaurant where I tried two interesting dishes –
linguini with clams and pistachio sauce and Spada, swordfish which is available
on EVERY menu in Sicily.
Back to the apartment (50 steps), sleep and check-out – 50
steps and the last steps in Sicily (Hallelujah) as my next two stops are
hotels.
Next stop Agrigento which ends up taking around three hours.
When I arrive it is HOT HOT HOT – feels like 40 degrees. I head towards the
Valley of the Temples and what are among the best Roman ruins I have ever seen
except maybe Ephesus (look it up). Two hours is about all I can take before I
head to the hotel which is 10kms out of town where I check in and catch the
LIFT to my room on the fourth floor. Importantly toilet paper is allowed in the
toilet and relief is at hand.
I decide to go to the ‘old town’ to have a quick light bite,
but I would still be looking for it if I hadn’t abandoned my search in favour
of a supermarket, salad and fruit salad items to prepare in the kitchenette in
my room. Very tired.
Next morning, a typical Italian breakfast and I head out for
Palermo where I arrive around 13:00 and check into my hotel – even this has 8
steps up to the reception, a check-in and head out for a walk. The hotel is
named the Grand Hotel Richard Wagner and is on Richard Wagner Street due to the
fact that he often stayed here when his works were being performed at the
Massimo Theatre.
First stop the Massimo Theatre where I again do a tour but
this time I am allowed inside (last time there were rehearsing Lucia D L). This
is such a beautiful theatre that pictures could not even justice. A quick lunch
at a restaurant €10 as much as you can
eat from platters and platters of yummy food ranging from antipasta, pastas,
meats, fish, salads and much more.
I then ‘hire’ a horse and driver with his brother who takes
me for a one hour tour of the city. I ascertain that of the €25 I agree to pay (down from the opening
ask of €80) the driver will receive €15
and ‘patrone’ will get €10. He owns the horse and rents the carriage for €50 a
day. He must rely on some higher paying customers than me to scratch out a
living – I tip him €5 and his younger brother €5 feeling a little sorry for his
plight.
A walk around the
department store and some nearby streets before back to the hotel and a light
dinner at a great nearby restaurant (Quattroventi Comfort Food). Well I
followed Google for the twenty minute walk through a rather ahem questionable
neighbourhood constantly thinking to myself surely there can’t be a reasonable
restaurant here. Well I turned the corner and had a great meal at proved to be
a great restaurant. I walked home via a different route.
Wednesday morning
and a leisurely wakeup and trip to Cefalu, about an hour from Palermo, provided
that is, that you don’t have to wait for 20 minuted to pay the €0.90 toll
because the automatic machines in both lanes are rejecting most coins. Anyway,
down to the beach area and an extensive walk around the historic part of town
including as shop where they sell almond paste, as they do everywhere, and it
was explained to me that one boils this with water to make almond milk.
A nice looking café
where I had melon with prosciutto (didn’t realise that this would be honey dew
melon but it was quite good all the same, and a slice of mushroom and ham pizza
which was just OK.
Back to Palermo,
avoiding the 5+km traffic jam into Palermo that I saw on the way out. Some more
walking around the historic part of town and a visit to the Arab-Norman castle
and the Palatine Church which would be up there with the best church interiors
that I have ever seen – quite amazing. After the church a visit to an
exhibition of modern Italian artists which was interesting but not a must do. I
decide to give the Catacombs a big miss, having done it once which was one time
too many. A lengthy walk back to the hotel and a rest before dinner.
That night, revisit
to Bye Bye Blues, a 30 minute drive from downtown Palermo where the food again
impresses me. Prawn Carpaccio followed by Pea Volute bed to a ragu pasta and an
crusted amberjack. The dessert plate was an homage to chocolate and comprised
nine different chocolate offerings – all sensationally good.
Having done what
seems like a fine dining tour of Paris and Sicily it is not plan (and plans
don’t always work) to lower the key of my dining experiences until I get to
Lyon.
Up early and packed
for the plane trip Palermo to Madrid and after the hotel breakfast off to the
airport. Car return no dramas – always a worry when you have a brand new car as
there I hiding. Got stung for fuel at €1.80 instead of €1.35 not too bad I
guess but also a new one I haven’t seen before a €20 fuel administration fee.
WTF I am applying for a job to dream up new fees for car rental companies.
Anyway this happened because the nearest fuel station to the airport is 8km
away – am thinking Mafia connection.
Ryanair and the
usual minimalist, shitty, unbearable, treated like cattle ride that one expects
from this airline. However I didn’t get this trip too cheaply not that this
matters to them. Anyway I arrived safely so I should be thankful for that.
Hertz car rental and a lovely Mercedes station wagon hereinafter named Carlos.
Into the historic
centre of Madrid where my Airbnb apartment is located. Mercifully nearby
parking and even more mercifully a GROUND FLOOR APARTMENT with no steps.
Actually the apartment is superb. Access was all electronic so no need to meet
the owner, and again three bedrooms which I don’t need but TV’s everywhere,
Netflix paid subscription, internet, beautifully fitted out kitchen and coloured
mood lighting in each room. I am most impressed and happy with this selection,
4 out of 4 so far with Airbnb.
Settled in and went
for a four hour walk, a bit of tapas and some grocery shopping including enough
to make a good salad for dinner and fruit afterwards. Very tired and a
relatively (23:00) early night.
Now you should know
that the last time I was in Madrid was 2003 and, probably based on the fact
that it was a short brief stop, did not bond with the place. This time however
having more time and investing in walking the streets and seeing more things, I
have concluded that it is a great tourist city, young, cosmopolitan, vibrant
and very manageable as a tourist.
Friday morning,
after having bought my Hop-on-Hop-off bus tickets online (I’m over 65 BTW – as
far as they are concerned). I was planning to do a full loop before deciding
where to go but hopped off at the Prado Museum during the circuit. Not really
my type of art as almost the sole focus seemed to be Renaissance and Baroque
Spanish artists. One interesting 1600’s painting of a six year old girl who
weighed 70kgs and was commissioned to highlight her obesity (apparently there
is a matching painting of her nude which was not on display). A pleasant three
hours, followed by a light lunch, but I’ll stick to impressionists in the
future.
After completing
the loop I stay on the bus and end up at what I regard as the finest
Palace/Castle I have ever visited. The Royal Palace of Madrid is, these days,
only used for special occasions and the tour allows almost unlimited access to
many of the rooms. They are impossible to describe but are both magnificent in
structure as well as their most beautiful fitout, chandeliers and furnishings.
The grand dining room was a fully set table comfortably seating 40 guests – I
then realised that this would barely work for a Grynberg Shabbat Dinner.
Off to the Mercato
San Miguel which was great. Situated on one level it was buzzing with people
looking at fresh produce, fruits, meats and, of course Iberian Jamon with beer
and Sangria freely available. I tried the gazpacho with langoustine, a single
oyster, fresh juices, Crab meat with seaweed and a Portuguese tart – ALL very
delicious. Some more walking
and back to the apartment for a much needed rest. Homemade prawn salad and
fruit salad for dinner before a walk around the neighbourhood. But in typical
Spanish fashion bed did not arrive till midnight. Saturday morning
and second day in Madrid, a leisurely wakeup, Nespresso Coffee supplied by the
landlord and walk to the bus stop for the Hop-on-Hop-off line 2 referred to as
the new Madrid. On the way there found a market with two floors of fruit,
butcher, fish and of course Iberico Ham offerings and a rooftop tapas dining
area.
The bus drove
through the up-market and embassy area of Madrid which did look very classy. I
decided to hop-off at the shopping district and walked around for an hour
before a light lunch which included foie-gras snack – of course including
Iberico Jamon.
Back on the bus to a point where I could hook up with the
historic route and get much closer to my apartment. Now I need to point out
that the temperature has been 30+ in the morning, 40+ in the afternoon and 30+
in the evening but given that there is not much humidity it has been very
pleasant to be out and about.
Spent another couple of hours walking around Playa Mayor and
unfortunately stumbled on the Pikolino shoe shop – you guessed it another pair
of shoes I didn’t need but have to have – actually sandals for summer which I sort
of needed – that’s my story and I’m sticking to it.
Back to the apartment for a rest and a salad for dinner and
walking around some nearby nightclubs.
Sunday morning up early, packed what little I hadn’t the
night before, tidied up and left Madrid for Toledo. Unfortunately, after the
one hour drive to Toledo it became apparent that the combination of the early
hour and being Sunday meant that not much was open – not to mention the
impossibility of parking. I found a ten minute parking spot and visited the
Sephardic Museum and Synagogue for about 45 minutes.
Off to Cordoba and I must say, what was a total of four
hours Madrid to Cordoba via Toledo seemed very effortless with the excellent
roads and Carlos. Arrived at Cordoba about 14:00 and agreed with the Airbnb
landlord to check in at 16:30 during which time I wandered around the old city
and had lunch which included broad beans, fried eggs and ham and which I must
say was very delicious. After dropping off the bags and a small siesta, I
resumed the walk around the Old City and mapped out my plan for the following
day. Dinner at a restaurant called Patio del Juderia which was somebody’s idea
of cashing in on the Judaic past of Cordoba and which the owner described to me
as a house typical of what the Jews would have lived in when they were in
Cordoba. The meal was OK, but the accompanying Flamenco show was also quite
enjoyable, if not a little too loud for my taste.
Monday morning and back to the old City where I toured the
Sephardic Museum which was incredibly interesting. The story of the RamBam
(Maimonides) and his genius in so many areas – medicine, philosophy, Jewish
philosophy, history – including that of the Muslims, diet and nutrition and so
much more.
I then bought a ticket to inspect the Mezquita. Now I have
previously been to Cordoba but have no memory whatsoever of visiting the
Mezquita, an unimaginably large Mosque until it was converted to a Cathedral/Church
in the late 1500s. A truly magnificent building.
A quick salad and one of the better tourist decisions I have
made while travelling. I decide to hire a semi-motorised tricycle and driver
for a two hour tour of the city. He was 22 and his family owned the business
which comprised four such bikes and he was also a graphic designer. He knew
everything about everything about Cordoba.
The first stop was a street only 75cm wide (yes I did fit)
leading to the world’s smallest square of just 15 sq metres – look it up in the
Guinness book of records. He explained how, during Roman Times, Cordoba had a
population of over one million people and was the largest city at that time.
Population today a modest 328,000. Cordoba has three seasons, Summer, Winter
and Hell. Now we may think of 42 degrees as being hell but the max recorded
here was 46.9 degrees – feeling like 59 apparently.
He explained the peaceful interaction of the Muslims, Jews
and Christians for more than 200 years until the Inquisition and went to
describe the Inquisitor who wasn’t satisfied to simply kill the non-believers,
he had to torture them before them killing them – apparently a movie if one
wants to see that sort of thing Tomás de Torquemada.
He then took me to a street where the story goes that two
families were at war and the Emir of Cordoba sided with one family to defeat
the other and the heads of the seven children of the loser were displayed on
this street. The story then goes on that the Emir then encouraged the
subsequent child of the defeated family to seek revenge and after that had
managed to rid himself of the two most powerful families in the area.
Off to nearby square which was a combination of stables and
rooms above and where it is reputed that Cervantes wrote Don Quixote.
Another factoid about Cordoba is that it has a massive water
supply under the city running off from the nearby mountains. There is an
adjacent river which was recently dammed and across which runs the Roman
Bridge, and amazing 2,000 year old bridge which looks like it was built
yesterday.
He pointed out that the statue of Maimonides does not stand
in the large Maimonides Square but rather in a very small Tiberius Square –
because his body was buried in lake Tiberius.
And so much more that my head is spinning. This tour changed
what was a short tour to do a few touristy things to one which gave me an
amazing understanding of the history and culture that is Cordoba. Best €34 spent on a tour that I can
recall.
Oh, and I learned that cobalt blue tiles, very common in
Spain, are used to keep flies away because apparently this affects their
vision. You learn something every day.
At the end of the tour we stopped at a fresh fruit juice
stand where I ordered lemon juice straight up. The owner could not believe that
this was what I wanted kept asking sugar ‘no’, water ‘no’ and said I was a champion
as he watched me quaff it down.
My glasses had broken and of course, being siesta time no
optometrist was open, but they would be at 18:00. A bit of a rest and off to
the optometrist who amazingly had the exact part required to fix my glasses and
off to a Tapas dinner of foie gras, goats cheese and those broad beans. Off to
bed a leaving in the morning.
Tuesday morning, leave Cordoba and around two hours later I
wind up in Seville where I meet the Airbnb hostess who takes me up the 64 steps
to the penthouse apartment. Again another great find on Airbnb if you forgive
the 64 steps. It is located a in the historic old part of town just a few small
blocks from the main attractions, the Cathedral and Alcazar.
Down to get the luggage (64 steps) and bring it up to the
apartment (64 steps) and out to have a schmooze around town (64 steps). I find
the Santa Cruz area which is called the Jewish Quarter of Seville. There are NO
remnants whatsoever of Jewish life there but there is a Sephard museum. As mum
would say of this situation, it’s always interesting how they want to monetise
their past with the Jews.
The museum was VERY interesting with the hostess giving a
group chat about the history of the Jews in Seville, how they were brought to
Seville by the Spanish King to be the backbone of trade, banking, finance and
skilled merchants. She went on to explain the coexistence of the Muslims, Jews
and Catholic nobility for 200 years, not as friends but as people who
recognised the best path forward.
Wednesday morning (64 steps), coffee at one of the MANY
local eateries, coffee bars, cafes and restaurants which line the streets of
Seville, and I went and queued up (very short) for the Alcazar only to be
approached by a registered tour guide wanting to put together a group of four or five English
speaking tourists to jump the queue do a one hour tour of the Alcazar for a
modest €10. I jumped in and was
treated to an excellent understanding of the Muslim origins of the Alcazar
(meaning Palace) and the assumption of the palace by the Catholic Kings of
Spain – and in fact one king who was simultaneously king of Germany and Spain.
The Muslim influences are clear from the arches, gardens,
tiles and many other features. However there are also Jewish and Catholic influences
coming from the time that the three cultures coexisted in Seville. One of the
highlights of the Alcazar were the beautiful gardens and surrounds.
Next to the adjacent cathedral, the third largest in the
world after Vatican and St Paul’s in London. Another Mosque built around the
700’s and converted to a church in the 1500’s. Interestingly the Spanish kings
all kept the flavour of the Mosque’s and didn’t completely rebuild them and for
that I guess they deserve some credit. The interior is quite magnificent. The
37 metre ceilings, the arches, paintings, religious items all combine to make
this a remarkable place to visit.
Off for a quick bite and lengthy walk to the Plaza De
Espana. This massive semi-circular building which looks like four castles each
representing the Ancient Kingdoms of Spanish history, joined together features
a series of tiled scenes covering all of the major cities and regions of Spain.
Although it looks very old, it was built in 1928 to mark the Spanish-American
exposition.
Back to the apartment (64 steps) for a siesta and a tapas
dinner (64 steps x 2) before and another late night.
Thursday morning, up early and packed for the drive.
Originally planned to drive directly to Malaga but changed this to include
Ronda and Marbella. The drive to Ronda was an easy 2 hours and on my arrival
was greeted by a very quaint town which is built on either side of a massive
gorge and connected by a very high bridge and seems to be part of a National
Park. Walked around the shops a bit and had some Tapas before moving on. An
hour later hit Marbella and was disappointed to be surrounded by humidity and
British holidaymakers, neither of which I found attractive. Spent a little time
walking along the beachfront and little boutiques but the quaintness of a lot
of Spain seems to have vanished here.
Another hour’s drive and I hit Malaga where I checked into a
very lovely top floor, WITH A LIFT directly into the apartment. Of all the
properties I looked at for this holiday this was the one the captured my
interest the most – and it didn’t disappoint. A lovely attic apartment with a
terrace area, most functional and very funky.
Spent the evening walking around the city and was astounded
at how busy, large and vibrant the city was. The shopping area is unbelievably
extensive with boutiques, tapas bars, cafes and restaurants all intermingled.
After a few hours I stop at a supermarket and buy an assortment of salad items
and go back to the apartment for a homemade prawn salad dinner, a relief from
what has been 7 days of non-stop tapas.
Friday morning up early and make broad beans, chorizo and
fried eggs for breakfast in an attempt to emulate the tapas dish, a great
effort but chorizo a little overpowering so might try something else next time.
I walk to the nearby markets, which sell fish, meats,
produce and of course fresh tapas and freshly cooked seafood. I then head towards
the Alcazaba when I bump into one of the Segway tour operators. Now you need to
know that I have been itching to do this for a very long time but have never
had the ‘guts’ to step and do it. Anyway I was convinced a two hour tour with
one other person for €45 ($A65) seemed fair.
Anyway, I need to
say it was a sensational experience, very easy to control and manage, and in
this instance the tour guide was excellent. Background he was Romanian and his
name was John. He started the business six months ago, currently has 7 Segways
and another 8 on order and he budgets to make around €125,000 ($A185k) this
year. He bought his 110sqm apartment (15 minute walk from ‘centro’) three years
ago for €64,000 and is looking at a 160sqm house in a similar location for €150,000
($A220k) – pity we can’t import real estate into Australia. He took me to see
all the sights, Cathedral, Alcazaba, the Procession Museum, the top of the hill
overlooking the city (bullfighting ring, marina, beach etc.) along the
beachfront and marina and many other Malaga sights. Well worth it and I will be
doing Segway again.
Finishing up around
14:00 I do a tour of the quite beautiful Cathedral (of course a converted
Mosque) and the Alcazaba (which is a fortress rather than a palace which would
be an Alcazar). One dud thing I did was visit the bullfighting museum which I
was told had Picassos to see, but clearly they were well hidden.
I head back to the apartment for a brief siesta before
heading out for a seafood dinner which was excellent, especially the dishes
selected by my English waitress. Home for the night and again, in keeping with
Spain, it is midnight but the streets, bars and restaurants are crowded with
people including young kids running around. Oh, Spain isn’t known for desserts
so, on the way back I hunt around for some dessert – my advice give Spain a
miss for dessert – inedible cheesecake. Nearly home, I stick my head in a
nearby church which again is quite beautiful.
Saturday morning and I must say that I am ‘museumed’ out and
looking for a day of relaxation and respite. A ‘rapido’ wash which is all dry
within 30 minutes on the balcony (I love Spain) and a leisurely walk to Costa
Coffee (think European Starbucks) where I order a medium latte which could
happily satisfy a family of ten.
I then head to the Casa Natal Picasso, a small museum housed
in the home where Picasso was born. Interesting but not sensational.
I need to take a break from Tapas so I research TripAdvisor
as to the best Japanese restaurant in Malaga where I have an EXCELLENT sushi,
sashimi and prawn lunch. Back to the apartment for a relax before my planned
evening visit to nearby Torremolinos, 15km from Malaga.
Torremelinos is a busy beach-side town with lots of
apartments and clearly a popular gay holiday destination with plenty of gay
flags in the shops and hanging from the apartments above. I walked down the
long main street of shops and down the irregular steps (plenty) down to the
beachfront, taking a stroll along the beach. Unfortunately what goes down has
to go up…..a lot of steps. I find a nice Italian restaurant where of course I
over order and head back to the apartment in Malaga.
It’s Sunday so up early shower and dress before leaving
Malaga for Granada. I really loved Malaga – lots and lots of shops in an ‘old
town’ environment, a very vibrant food scene, beaches and lots to see and do.
In Granada I had decided to book a hotel near the entrance
to the Alhambra – the Washington Irving hotel, named after an author who wrote Tale
of Alhambra. It’s a lovely hotel with a nice vibe about it. After check in and
dumping the car and luggage I head down to the city and do my usual walk around
and reconnaissance. I have been here before but have little recollection of
that visit. A Tapas dinner and early night facing hot weather and the Alhambra
tomorrow.
Monday morning and I decide to do another two hour Segway
tour of the hills overlooking Granada where I learn about the Gypsies that lived
in caves outside the city wall because they were refused entry. Again the
Segway was easy but a bit of a struggle going downhill over cobbled stones
until I properly gained my posture to control it. Getting back around 12:00.
I visit some of the downtown monuments and Cathedral (not up
to the standard of others this trip) before heading up to the Alhambra where I
have 14:00 tickets to tour the palace. The Alhambra is an extremely large Nazrine
palace and fortress sitting on the hill above Granada. I took an audio guide (a
modest €1) and tour the entire
site taking about three hours in what seemed like 40 degree heat.
I research restaurants and found a great one called Siberius
which turned out to be awesomely great food, great service and lovely ambience.
Interestingly I get to the restaurants around 20:15 and they are empty and by
21:30 are completely full. I get that this is the normal Spanish timing but it’s
weird being the only person in the restaurant.
Tuesday morning, up not so early and decide on the hotel
breakfast as the drive to Alicante is a lengthy 3:45. One stop for fuel and I
get there about 14:30 and luckily the Airbnb host agreed to come straight away
and let me in. Seventh floor AND A LIFT. It is a most beautiful apartment with
a rooftop terrace overlooking the nearby houses and apartments. Located between
the beach (300mtrs and old town 100mtrs) it could not have been better.
Walked around the city and found a late night dinner
restaurant and walked around. What has been remarkable around Spain has been
seeing young kids accompanied by their parents aged 2 to 5 playing in the parks
at midnight and later. Fully awake and full of energy – remarkable.
On Wednesday morning I head up to the Castello Santa Barbra which
again is a palace and fortress. This one is perhaps a lesser palace and a
greater fortress – of course on the hill overlooking the city. I of course
opted to take the lift from underneath the castle to the top of the castle and
back down. There is an exhibition of Game of Thrones which of course was not
shot here. Most places I have been to in Spain claim to have a connection or
been used in the Game of Thrones but not this one. Quite a good exhibition. I
spend the afternoon at the casino (unsuccessfully but a nice relax from the
very hot and VERY humid weather and more walking around the city and a good
dinner and sleep.
I have been well impressed with the standard of food and
restaurants this trip. The better restaurants have not been all that expensive
compared to Sydney while the ‘everyday’ restaurants serve great quality meals
at VERY reasonable prices.
Thursday morning and an 08:50 flight to Lyon (via Barcelona)
means an early wakeup, drive to the airport (15 mins) car return and uneventful
flight. Arrive in Lyon, light rail to the city and taxi to the hotel at the
convention centre where the bridge will be held and which will be home for the
next 17 days.
I had booked a fine-dining restaurant called Le Supreme
which was one of the best meals I have had in a long while. A five-course blind
degustation was awesomely good (have all the pics) for $A80. If somebody had
told me this was a Michelin restaurant that would have sounded true. The bad
news is that, like maybe half the restaurants in Lyon, they will be closed for
the two weeks of the bridge due to ‘French Vacance’.
It’s Friday morning, two days before the bridge starts, and around
10:00 I buy a two day hop-on-hop-off bus ticket doing the entire one and a half
hour tour to get my bearings, after which I retrace some of the stops by foot
taking pictures and visiting. I then head back to the hotel where I have a
much-needed nap which turns out to be two hours.
I had made another booking at Bouchon Le Cordeliers. A
Bouchon is the name for a typical Lyonnaise (dare I call it) family restaurant.
The three course ‘Formule’ meal for $40 was excellent – not fine dining but
good food well cooked.
It’s Saturday morning, so I head to the venue to collect my
new work shirts and ID badge because I will need the badge to get into the
Opening ceremony that night. I then lazily catch a taxi to the Basilica at the
top of the hill. It is modern in terms of everything else I had seen this trip –
1880’s – was quite beautiful notwithstanding. I spent about an hour looking it
over before walking through the nearby park to catch the hop-on bus only to see
it pass by as I approached. With the next bus 30 minutes away I decide to walk
down the 500 steps to the river and then another 1km towards the city where I
had booked lunch at Paul Bocusse’s, Brasserie do Nord. Paul Bocusse, now 91, has
earned more Michelin Stars than anybody else with 21 and is regarded as the father
of modern French cuisine. I must say the reasonably priced meal neither
underwhelmed me not overwhelmed me, so it’s a case of been there done that.
Unfortunately I will not be going to his 3 star Michelin restaurant - €470 being the deterrent.
Back to the hotel where
change into a suit and catch the provided bus to the Opening Ceremony
which is to be held at the Centre Ville (Town Hall). It was bad and good. The
bad was that I arrived at 18:15 for a ceremony which was scheduled to start at
18:30 and did not start till 19:00 having to stand in the courtyard of what was
previously a beautiful palace. I managed to find a folding chair when my
private school education kicks in and I sacrifice the seat for a lady (it
helped her that she is the Secretary of the World Bridge Federation). More bad
news the lengthy speeches in two languages lasted 45 minutes – we were all on
our feet for 90 minutes by now without
drinks or anything. The good news, drinks, unlimited Veuve being one, and outstanding
canape style food was the good news, and I do mean outstanding.
Well I’ll end my blog here as the bridge won’t be all that interesting.
In summary a great trip albeit hot but not unpleasantly so.
A major focus of this trip was the food and the pursuit of great restaurants.
On that subject I can report that I did not have any food disappointment at all
NOT EVEN ONE DISH, NOT ONE.
The trip included seven Airbnb accommodations and I could
unreservedly say that I had not one issue, problem or criticism about any of
the places I chose. They probably weren’t all that cost saving over hotels but
they allowed me to live like a local, do my washing which is important, cooks
some meals and have more normal daily life.
Ciao till next time.
